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Topic: How to rip damaged CDRs? (Read 5965 times) previous topic - next topic
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How to rip damaged CDRs?

Is it possible to rip damaged CDRs to HD?
I recorded many of my LPs and MCs to CDR and wanted to rip them to my music library on HD now, but noticed that nearly all of my recordings are damaged!
Its my fault, cos i used cheap cdrs ("Burn Me", manufactured by Plasmon).
I tried to rip them with EAC, but without any success.
So i tried CDex and few of them could be copied to hd.
I already tried tools like isobuster, cdcheck and unstoppable copier but none of them could give me the expected results (cdcheck has been the only tool that could copy most cdrs, but only with clicks and pops...).
Any other suggestion?

Btw. there are more than 80 cdrs affected and i hope there is any chance to rescue them (it has taken some time to "clean" the LP/MC recordings...)

Another question:
I only want to save all my music on data-cdr/dvdr in the next time (i think it would be safer to do it that way, or am i wrong?).
Is there any possibility to add some additional error protection on data-cdr/dvdr to avoid the above issues in the future?

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #1 –
are those data cds or audio cds?

If they are audio CDs try EAC in burst mode.

For data CDs I never found a solution that would rip an image of the damaged CD in a fast way.

In the future to recover data from damaged cds try par2 -> www.quickpar.org


edit: clarification

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #2 –
Thanks for your reply.
They are audio-cdrs and i've tested EAC with all modes but without success...

And thanks for the advice of quickpar. I'll give it a try 

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #3 –
Everybody go on about par, but did anyone actually tried to recover rotten CD-s. I bet not. I am not an expert, but I bet that 99% of us do not know what our HW does when it meets a rotten disk. Now if it is rotten you may not even be able to recover the directory structure, or keep the laser on track, or whatever. So you will not get even close to read par. On that basis I really think that people overestimate par. I would say if you want security make extra copies.

Triza

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #4 –
http://www.isobuster.com/

-I havent tried it myself for a while - it had a mean burst mode last time I used it
no conscience > no custom

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #5 –
@Triza
Your advice to make extra copies has been my first idea. And i saved some data that way so far (on verbatim or hp - also manufactured by mcc - dvd+r and as security copy on tevion - manufactured by ritek - dvd+r). I hope my chosen dvd+r-media are a good choice...

@ChiGung
I tried isobuster but i couldn't get it to work properly.
Only cdcheck has give me some results, but with much more clicks and pops as on the original LPs...

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #6 –
From what I see in this thread, it looks like your CDRs have some fairly serious uncorrectable errors, and ripping with a CDROM drive isn't going to work. If you know anyone who has a Plextor drive (eg. Premium, PX712, PX716, etc), see if their drive will rip the CDRs, as Plextors can sometimes succeed where other drives fail.

If all attempts to rip fail, the next thing to ask is whether they play acceptably on an audio CD player. Most audio CD players make a better job of interpolating uncorrectable errors than CDROM drives, so you might get better results that way. Note that different players will have different levels of success in this respect, so it's worth trying as many players as you can lay your hands on.

If they do play OK, then record them in real time to WAV files on your hard disk asap, before they completely die. It would be preferable to record digitally using a soundcard with a (non-resampling) SPDIF input. Once you've recovered them to hard disk, archive the WAV files (or a lossless compression of them, eg. using FLAC) back out to data format CDRs, using a decent quality brand of media.

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #7 –
@cliveb
Thanks for your reply.
I tried to play the damaged cdrs with my onkyo dx-7911 or my cheap philips fw-870c stereo and wanted to record them on my philips cdr-570 cd-recorder, but it failed too on the five cdrs i tried yesterday. But i could at least save some files to cdr that way.
So i think the most cdrs are gone forever...

Any suggestions for good cdrs?
I wanted to turn to verbatim cdrs, but made not only good experiences in the past.

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #8 –
Sorry to hear you got caught by bad cdr's 

Maybe you want to try with a Liteon drive ? I've seem them read some crappy DVD-R discs which were not even recognized by Plextor and Pioneer drives.

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #9 –
I wanted to buy a new dvd-rom, cos mine is a bit old (matsushita sr-8587).
Would you recommend to buy a dvd-rom or a dvd-burner in addition to my nec-nd1100a-burner i already have?
What would give better results on playback of damaged cd/dvd?

Btw. i tried on several dvd-rom, stereo and dvd-burner from my sisters and neighbours but all with the same results: most cdrs seem to be gone forever... 

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #10 –
It really looks like your cd-r contents are gone for good.

You could try the suggested Plextor drives, but if even hifi 1x cd-r players have trouble playing them back, I'll doubt you'll have much luck.

Recommendation for a decent CD-R: Verbatim DatalifePlus PASTEL (made by Taiyo Yuden / Japan)

Recommendation for archival CD-R MAM-A Archival Gold - 300 year rated (made by MAM-A)

Recommendation for dvd-burner: BenQ DW1640

Recommendation for a dvd-rom drive: AOpen DVD-1648/AAP Pro

Recommendation for a good dvd-media: Plextor DVD+R 8x (Taiyo Yuden)

regards,
halcyon

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #11 –
Quote
Everybody go on about par, but did anyone actually tried to recover rotten CD-s. I bet not. I am not an expert, but I bet that 99% of us do not know what our HW does when it meets a rotten disk. Now if it is rotten you may not even be able to recover the directory structure, or keep the laser on track, or whatever. So you will not get even close to read par. On that basis I really think that people overestimate par. I would say if you want security make extra copies.

Triza
[a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=305917"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


I did and the problem is to get the image out of the damaged CD. If you manage to get it out of the CD then par works to recover the content.

In my tests I intentionally damaged some sectors of a CD and recovered the information with par blocks stored in another CD that was not damaged (if both get damaged then you are f**ed).

The main problem is that ripping the damaged CD image is a herculean task. Depending on the amount of damage in your CD it can take ages to get ripped, if it gets ripped at all. Add to that the fact that for a badly damaged CD your stored par2 blocks may not be sufficient to recover data.

I am seriously considering abandoning par and keeping 2 copies of important data in different media (DVD and CD for instance). You spend more in media and storage space, but these drawbacks are more than offset by convenience and ease of use.

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #12 –
Thanks for your advices.
Now i will stay on recording my data twice on dvd+r (will do a search for the plextor's, but i've never seen them in the stores).
The verbatim data life plus cdrs i bought the last time was "made in india". Should be moser baer, shouldn't they? But they were recognised by nero info tool as "verbatim" (?). But i'll try with the "pastel" one's.
I know taiyo yuden's are the best. I still have boeder cdrs from 1997 manufactured by taiyo yuden and they are still all playable (the same as my maxell's bought 1997, but they are manufactured by hitachi maxell).
But i have seen some newer boeder cdrs by a friend, unmasked as princo...
It would be easier if the real manufacturer would be forced to be displayed the on the cdr-box...

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #13 –
Quote
Recommendation for a decent CD-R: Verbatim DatalifePlus PASTEL (made by Taiyo Yuden / Japan)
[a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=306023"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

there's no such thing! There are "Verbatim DataLife Pastel" that are supposed to be pretty good and made by Taiyo Yuden and there are "Verbatim DataLife Plus". You are probably talking about the DataLife Plus that got colorful lables, but those are not made by Taiyo Yuden!
--alt-presets are there for a reason! These other switches DO NOT work better than it, trust me on this.
LAME + Joint Stereo doesn't destroy 'Stereo'

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #14 –
Quote
Thanks for your advices.
Now i will stay on recording my data twice on dvd+r (will do a search for the plextor's, but i've never seen them in the stores).
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Plextor-branded DVDRs are Taiyo Yuden all right, but they are grossly overpriced. Like with Sony, you're going to pay extra for little more than  the brand name.

Try finding bulk Taiyos in spindles or Verbatim, Maxell, Ricoh and Sony DVDRs. With CD-Rs, go with TY, Verbatim DataLife Plus or RiTEK. Beware [a href="http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=112854]fake TYs[/url].

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #15 –
I've come across the same problem.
I found that the ability to read back damaged CDRs depends on the CIRC implementation of the drive. Here are the results I got : http://perso.numericable.fr/~laguill2/dae/...l/astraldae.htm , and next page.
The hifi CD player was not the best, the Teac e540 CD-ROM drive did better, in spite of its lesser ability to interpolate errors, because it has a better ability to correct errors to begin with.

Damaged CDR rot fast. If there is still something to recover, do it as soon as possible. On a given CDR, some tracks might be perfectly readable while other are dead. All my CDRs did rot from the end. They began to be unreadable past 60 minutes, then the destruction process started from the beginning, leaving only the middle intact.

Par files, or CD-ROM archives would have only slowed the process a bit. Two or three years more, and the CDR would not even be recognized in any drive anyway.

I had some CDRs stored in three different locations. Mine died first, after 2 years and a half, then the other ones, 6 monthes after mines. there were various brands (mostly Mitsui, then Verbatim, HiSpace, BASF... but no Tayo Yudens). The two gold ones lasted significantly longer.

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #16 –
I have now tried to copy all my cdrs i ever made since 1997 to hdd, to see which ones are damaged and which ones are not.

Strange: the oldest ones (i made in 1997) are all intact!
But they are all discerned as taiyo yuden, hitachi maxell and kodak by the nero info tool (bought as boeder, maxell and kodak). Only one kodak has gone, caused by a peeled surface...
Most of the cdrs manufactured by fuji, moser baer, nan ya, ritek, prodisc, tdk and mitsubishi chemical (verbatim) are still good with only a few failures.
But cdrs manufactured by plasmon, cmc magnetics, gigastorage, customer pressing oosterhout (cpo) and unknown (atip: 97m35s44f) are nearly all damaged!
Some of them are made in the last few months!
Its very annoying...

How to rip damaged CDRs?

Reply #17 –
Quote
But cdrs manufactured by plasmon, cmc magnetics, gigastorage, customer pressing oosterhout (cpo) and unknown (atip: 97m35s44f) are nearly all damaged!
Some of them are made in the last few months!
Its very annoying...
[a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=307788"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I  also recently tried some LG branded Plasmon discs, and they were unbelievable crap: A tidal wave of CU errors started at about 55 min. with every disc right after burning (in Premium and 716A), so it's not just a question af longevity but also of not yielding readable burns in the first place.
Proverb for Paranoids: "If they can get you asking the wrong questions, they don't have to worry about answers."
-T. Pynchon (Gravity's Rainbow)