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Topic: Speaker Box Back Repair (Read 5710 times) previous topic - next topic
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Speaker Box Back Repair

http://i.imgur.com/6TaV19I.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/w2xxkCB.jpg

Hello, and thank you to everyone who reads this thread. I appreciate any help to get me on the right path to learning how to Fix my little issue.

So I have a speaker box that had the speaker wire break at the box (maybe 8th of inch left). I used a hand saw and cut a small hole to do a temporary repair. What I'm ignorant about is how I can prevent pull damage if someone accidentally pulled on the speaker. Any advice to a good permanent repair of the the actual speaker line would awesome.

As a side note, I'd like to refrain from something that would prevent me from coming back later to do the same repairs.

Again, thank you!

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #1 –
Quote from: DinneNotDinner on
What I'm ignorant about is how I can prevent pull damage if someone accidentally pulled on the speaker.

Just staple the wire -- or that plastic hanging off if it is firmly attached to the wire -- to the outside of the cabinet leaving some slack between the wire where stapled and the internal connection.

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Apesbrain on
Quote from: DinneNotDinner on
What I'm ignorant about is how I can prevent pull damage if someone accidentally pulled on the speaker.

Just staple the wire -- or that plastic hanging off if it is firmly attached to the wire -- to the outside of the cabinet leaving some slack between the wire where stapled and the internal connection.


Awesome! Thanks a million.

What about the hole?  Is there some sort of plug that I can make for it? I assume just electrical tape should be good, but maybe i should get claps for the wire connection.

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #3 –
If the cutout isn't already too large, you can install a terminal panel like this.  They come in various sizes.  You might want to seal some of those saw-slots with wood-filler or caulk too.

Do you have a soldering iron?  I don't know what's on the "inside" of that terminal panel...  it might have a tab that accepts a crimped Quick Disconnect.  I you are uncomfortable with soldering, crimp connectors will be easier to use.    But, you'll need to get a crimp tool...  don't try to use a pair of pliers.    You can also get crimp-on butt splice connectors to connect two wires together permanently.  You can get crimp terminals and crimpers at electronics parts stores, home improvement stores, or auto parts stores.

Can you get inside the speaker from the front if you need to?  Sometimes the drivers are screwed-in from the front and you can get to the wiring that way by removing the driver.

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #4 –
Quote from: DVDdoug on
If the cutout isn't already too large, you can install a terminal panel like this.  They come in various sizes.  You might want to seal some of those saw-slots with wood-filler or caulk too.

Do you have a soldering iron?  I don't know what's on the "inside" of that terminal panel...  it might have a tab that accepts a crimped Quick Disconnect.  I you are uncomfortable with soldering, crimp connectors will be easier to use.    But, you'll need to get a crimp tool...  don't try to use a pair of pliers.    You can also get crimp-on butt splice connectors to connect two wires together permanently.  You can get crimp terminals and crimpers at electronics parts stores, home improvement stores, or auto parts stores.

Can you get inside the speaker from the front if you need to?  Sometimes the drivers are screwed-in from the front and you can get to the wiring that way by removing the driver.



Awesome. Thank you for the response! 
(I realized that I may have posted this in the wrong forum, Sorry.  )

I'll make sure to remember to fill the holes when all the repairs are done. So if I went with the panel solution I would need to install banana plugs on the wires going to the speaker box, correct? I assume it should be a relatively easy process.

The quick connects look really handy, but I'm not sure how I would be able to to seal up the hole. If I seal back up the hole then I'll have to saw it again if it breaks at the box. Maybe I can find a cap or a removable panel? I could maybe install a panel that has two male quick connects and then install the female quick connects on the cable running to the speaker?

I think I have enough wire that I don't need to remove the driver. If so then I guess that's where the soldering will come in, correct? (not sure if you would recommend it for anything else)

Again, Thank you for your help.

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #5 –
An advantage to using bullet connectors, assuming you have a crimping tool to connect them (which can be found pretty cheaply for the simple, stamped metal variety) is that they act as safety break-aways should the wire be tugged on down the road, at least if you don't connect them too tightly and allow for a small amount of intentional "play" to your connection. Banana plugs also have the advantage of acting as safety breakaways  in some setups.

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #6 –
Quote
I'll make sure to remember to fill the holes when all the repairs are done. So if I went with the panel solution I would need to install banana plugs on the wires going to the speaker box, correct?
No, you don't need banana plugs.  You can use bare wires.  These are "5-Way" binding posts.  They take bare wire, banana plugs, spade lugs, test probes...  I forget what the 5th option is...

Quote
I assume it should be a relatively easy process.
I'd go with bare wire or spade lugs unless this is for a portable PA system where plugging-in and unplugging needs to be quick and easy.  But yes, solderless banana plugs that use a set screw to attach the wires are very common.

Quote
The quick connects look really handy, but I'm not sure how I would be able to to seal up the hole.
Actually, what I was trying to say is that the panel might accept quick-disconnects on the inside (in case you don't have a soldering iron). 



P.S.
Congratulations for having the guts to cut a hole in your speaker, and for making a successful repair!

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #7 –
Quote from: DVDdoug on
I forget what the 5th option is...

According to Polk, [just checked cause I was curious]:

"The fifth connecting method doesn't find itself used much in modern audio applications, but the original General Radio product brochure [the creators of the 5-way] described using "alligator clips", which are spring loaded clips that have (you guessed it) gripping teeth."

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #8 –
Quote from: mzil on
According to Polk, [just checked cause I was curious]:

"The fifth connecting method doesn't find itself used much in modern audio applications, but the original General Radio product brochure [the creators of the 5-way] described using "alligator clips", which are spring loaded clips that have (you guessed it) gripping teeth."


That is actually not the worst idea ... At the risk of derailing;

Why do speaker connectors have shortfuse-able bare metal on the "live" side?  If they slip out, they can short the amp.  For a mains connection, the active part would be femally equipped - like if the connection at the speaker side had (pardon my language) two stiffies fixed at safe distance from each other. 

Alligators are at least found with some partial insulation like http://www.burntec.com/image/cache/extech_...807-500x500.jpg or
http://www.fluke.com/NR/rdonlyres/77F12D90...01a_328x220.jpg or http://www.extech.com/instruments/resources/images/TL806.jpg - but who has seen those on speakers? Actually, there do exist insulated banana males too, but I do not know whether they fit such speaker posts.


Speakon, g'dammit ...
 

Speaker Box Back Repair

Reply #9 –
I use dual bananas on all my speakers. If the wire gets yanked they fall out (hopefully) rather than smashing the speaker to the ground, and when they do dangle it is impossible for the + and - to short.

For ten points, who can tell my why a B&W speaker would NEVER allow dual bananas, so their posts are spaced differently than this standard?